Climbing is a passion and once it becomes part of your heart, it stays there forever. What are the opportunities that Bulgarian mountains offer to climbers? Radio Bulgaria met Bulgarian climber Nikolay Petkov to find out the answer. He became keen on climbing in 1973. He has successfully climbed the highest peaks on 6 out of 7 continents, as well as previously unclimbed peaks in Antarctica. He set his foot on Everest in 1984 when he climbed the peak from its western side and descended using the classical route towards Nepal. He climbed Everest once more in 2004. Currently climbing is developing very fast, he says and adds that one of the fastest developing disciplines is sport climbing.

“In Bulgaria there are a number of places suitable for climbing such as the rocks near Karlukovo, Vratsa, Dryanovo, Veliko Tarnovo, Lakatnik. There is great variety of places that climbers should visit. Although Bulgarian mountains are not very high, they offer opportunities for alpine climbing, including in the winter. There are also places suitable for ice climbing – Skakavitsa in Rila and in the area of the northern Dzhendem in Stara Planina. But there are also warmer winters and one should be informed about the condition of the ice.”

Lovers of Deep Water Soloing can also find unforgettable emotions in Bulgaria.

“This type of climbing is not typical for Bulgaria, but we have a place on the coast where rocks are appropriate. Climbers who arrive in Bulgaria should make a visit to the sea as DWS is practiced near Kamen Bryag and Tyulenovo, where rock formations are unique. In August, when conditions are good for this type of climbing, Bulgarian climbers traditionally gather there.”

The Lakatnik rocks are another favorite Bulgarian climbing destination. The area has been visited by climbers since the 30s of XX century. A landmark for the region is the "Eagle's Nest" - perched on the rocks red hut, firmly secured with metal brackets, which can accommodate up to three people. It is accessible only by rope. It was built back in 1938 at the idea of ​​local climbers and climbers from Sofia.

Here is more from Nikolay Petkov:

“The rocks near Lakatnik are one of the best developed areas for climbing. In recent years, climate change and rising temperatures have made Lakatnik very suitable for climbing even in winter. Climbers have also started climbing rock formations near Teteven and Ribaritsa. Near the town of Dryanovo there are unique conditions for climbing and perhaps in the future this will become a very popular destination.”

Fans of climbing can also find some nice spots near Sofia:

“The cliffs of Vitosha offer a few routes. But Sofia climbers and guests from abroad should not miss this place. There one can practice various types of climbing. ‘Reznyovete’ are good for alpine climbing; ‘Kominite’ and the Boyana Waterfall are good for sport climbing. In winter the Boyana Waterfall also offers conditions for ice climbing.”

And here are the tips of Nikolay Petkov for beginners in the sport:

“Young climbers must be very careful in the first years. I often say that if you do not die during the first three years, then it becomes harder. This is a gross joke but really basic errors lead to incidents in mountaineering and climbing. Young and inexperienced people are more likely to make such mistakes. Actions become more automatic with experience but of course no one is immune to making mistakes. After errors come natural hazards. In the mountain and under rock formations, falling rocks have caused many incidents. So, one must be very careful because sometimes bad things happen out of the blue.”

At the end it is worth mentioning that in August this year the International Olympic Committee decided to include climbing in the program of the Olympic Games in Tokyo in 2020. We hope that young talents like Peter Ivanov from Sofia, who in 2016 won the European Youth Cup would be able to grab an Olympic gold for Bulgaria.

English: Alexander Markov