Mulled wine, survachkas and Ferris wheel - the spirit of Christmas in Sofia

published on 12/3/24 2:19 PM

Mariana Dimova and her survachkas.

Photo: Veneta Nikolova

Who said Bulgarians were grumpy pessimists? Take a stroll through Sofia's Christmas bazaars and meet the cheerful crowd. The festive decorations, music, merry-go-rounds and stalls overflowing with treats and handmade souvenirs can make the gloomiest person don a broad smile. In the festive bustle one can easily forget, if only briefly, the crises, wars and chaos that surround us, and let themselves be swept away by an atmosphere of warmth and optimism.

Handmade Christmas decorations always bring cheer.

Near the National Palace of Culture, a Christmas tree decorated with children's handmade toys glows festively, and the stalls of Sofia Christmas Fest 2024 are set up nearby. Mulled wine and brandy are offered at every turn. The Christmas spirit is enhanced by a variety of snacks from international cuisines - German sausages, Hungarian langos, Belgian waffles and so on.

"I decided to participate in the bazaar so I could get even more into the festive spirit," says vendor Roksana Karaasenova as she prepares us hot chocolate and marshmallows, adding:

"We are all so pleased that the market has almost 20 more chalets this year. There is a bigger choice now, including sweets. We have a Ferris wheel, a slide for the kids, a shooting gallery where they can win a prize. There is a lot to see, it is definitely a must.

Residents of Sofia remember the bazaars of Soviet times as a pale copy of today's. They were held on New Year's Eve and focused on barbecues and mulled wine, while delicacies from abroad were terra incognita for the population. Nowadays, the bazaars get bigger and richer every year. And here comes Santa Claus! Everyone wants to talk to him and have their photo taken with him!

"The vibe here is so great! Adorable kids come with their parents and everything is so festive. There's a Ferris wheel, a carousel, entertainment, sweets, nibbles, it's a very nice place. What do I remember about the Christmas bazaars of the past? They weren't so nice. But then the winters were colder and it wasn't very cosy to stand outside, and they smelled of grilled mackerel! Father Frost used to come on New Year's Eve, but now he stays in Russia with Putin, who won't let him come to Bulgaria - only to Minsk, and then only if he's been a good Father Frost," Santa jokes good-naturedly as little Bella sits down for a photo on the bench next to him. "She's been a very good child this year and Santa promised her a present," says her mother, Beatrice Kolyuva, adding:

Beatrice Kolyuva, little Bella and Bella's daddy.

"I've been hearing about this bazaar for a while but we haven't had a chance to go because my little one was sick and we had to stay at home. She's better now, so we decided to come and see it. There are some nice attractions here. The vendors have some good products. It's really nice!"

Our next stop is the most vibrant stall of the bazaar where Mariana Dimova sells her beautiful traditional survachkas - twigs, decorated colourful threads, popcorn on a string, yarn, all kinds of dried fruit, etc.

"They are made from cornel branches, which are said to bring good health. Traditionally, the twig is decorated with popcorn and all kinds of dried fruit. We have put wool and all sorts of things in them, just like they were made a long time ago. Luckily, people buy them because they still hold on to traditions, and this is a very important thing," says Mariana Dimova.

Traditional survachkas are one of the best selling gifts.

Now is the time for Christmas shopping. Everything here is handmade with flair and imagination. "We are proud to be part of this wonderful Christmas bazaar," says Desi, an artisan, adding:

"We have beautiful tree decorations, lots and lots of lucky charms, all handmade. We're a small family business - just mum, grandma and the kid. We have great Christmas mugs for the whole family, specially designed for mum, for grandma, for grandpa, because the holidays are about family and being together. What do I wish people? First of all, I wish them health, because we can buy everything else, but not health. And to believe in miracles, because miracles happen all the time. Especially on holidays."

Photography: Veneta Nikolova

Translated and posted in English by Elizabeth Radkova

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Mulled wine, survachkas and Ferris wheel - the spirit of Christmas in Sofia

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