From vineyard to bottle: The legendary Mavrud, Bulgaria's signature wine

published on 5/31/24 12:19 PM

Photo: BTA

Mavrud is poetry in a bottle, according to connoisseurs of Bulgaria's iconic grape. It is characterised by its deep ruby colour and high levels of tannin and acidity. Aromas of berries, rosehip marmalade, earth, herbs and spices dominate in the legendary Bulgarian drink. Aging in oak barrels gives it a smooth and full-bodied taste.

Mavrud has been grown throughout Bulgaria for centuries, but the region where it originated is believed to be Asenovgrad (formerly Stanimaka), where the largest concentration of Mavrud vineyards can still be found today. Extensive plantations of this grape variety exist also near Peruschitsa, Pazardzhik, Stara Zagora and Chirpan.

"It is no coincidence that this wine is a symbol of Bulgaria," says Ekaterina Hristova of the Bulgarian Association of Wine Professionals (BAWP), adding:

"This is not so much because it is the most widely grown variety in Bulgaria, but because it has been unique to the region since the time of the Thracians. Mavrud can also be found in small parts of northern Greece, but the grape is at its best in Bulgaria and can definitely be a visiting card for this country. For the past 5 years we have been celebrating the International Day of Mavrud, following the example of the International Days of Iconic Local Varieties held around the world. The event is an initiative of our association with the support of The Wine & Spirit Education Trust.

There are many legends about the origins of Mavrud. According to one, Khan Krum banned the production and consumption of wine, believing it to be the cause of his army's defeats. But a man named Mavrud secretly continued to make the wine and offered it to wounded soldiers, who quickly recuperated and returned to the battlefield. When Khan Krum learned of the drink's miraculous powers, he immediately lifted the ban, but ordered that the grape variety be named after the brave man.

In the past, the so-called Stanimaka Malaga was very popular. Its creator is believed to be the producer and trader Aristidis Chorbadzhakov from Assenovgrad. His legendary wine was made by boiling the must until it reduced by about 30-40% of its volume. The wine matured for three years in small oak barrels, and only then was it put on the market. However, this technology is no longer used.

"It is no coincidence that the International Day of Mavrud is celebrated on 26 October - Dimitrovden. Legend has it that Chorbadzhakov, the Stanimak winegrower, started picking his grapes after St Demetrius' Day, or in November according to the old calendar, which was quite late. It was a very aromatic grape and made a very thick wine. Hence the misconception that Mavrud is a very full-bodied, very heavy wine. In reality, as a wine profile, Mavrud is actually medium-bodied (in terms of density and weight) and has a very nice acidity. Today we have wonderful Mavruds, we have natural Mavruds and we have rosé Mavruds and other types.

As a piece of Bulgaria's tourist mosaic, Mavrud has many admirers among foreign visitors, and interest in wine tours with tastings of the iconic variety is high. Unfortunately, tasting local wines is not always an option. But this is changing. More and more of our restaurants are working with local wineries to supply them with local varieties, including Mavrud. "Because tourists are curious to taste the flavours and aromas of the place, and wine is part of that message," concludes Ekaterina Hristova.

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