The oldest archaeological evidence of the existence of cosmetics goes back to 4,000 BC and was discovered in Egypt. The first written document with makeup tips is the Ebers Papyrus, one of the oldest medical manuscripts of herbal knowledge, dating back to 1,500 BC.

The human race was aware of the medicinal properties of some plants as far back as 5,000 years ago. The Thracians knew some herbs have a beneficial effect on humans and applied them. In his works, Theophrastus, known as “the father of botany”, describes Thrace as a region with the greatest diversity of medicinal plants.

In his “Six days of creation”, medieval Bulgarian scholar Joan Exarchturns his attention to herbalism in the country. In the “Third oration” of plants he writes: “Nothing in existence was created to no purpose. It serves as food for the stock, or was created as a remedy for ourselves, as a cure for some ailment.”In the “Sixth oration” he describes how animals are treated using different herbs. For centuries the active substances in herbs have been used for medicinal purposes, but also as beauty products. So, what happens if herbal knowledge is combined with cosmetics? That is something that is within the realm of Maria Spasova, and has been for years. She explains why she chose to make herbal beauty products:

“It runs in the family. We were inspired by my great-great-grandmother, whom I have only heard stories about. She made all kinds of ointments and creams using extracts for cosmetic use but also for treating eczemas, bites, scars, muscle pain. But there is more to it that just the inspiration, our grandmother left us a book of recipes which my mother added to through the years.”

What kind of knowledge does it take to be able to come up with a recipe comprising natural products? Maria Spasova:

“Knowledge of nature, of herbs, oils and their effect and counter effect. We are constantly on the lookout for new and efficient, competitive formulas. Following world tendencies in the cosmetics industry and bringing our products up to date is a must. And this is just part of the knowledge one needs to be able to invent a recipe.”

Maria Spasova’s company offers a wide range of cosmetic products, close to 500. But how is a recipe born and what is the road an idea has to travel to become a beauty product?

“I market products with crystals, gold, snails, caviar. We keep abreast of new trends, but it is usually the customers themselves that show us the way, suggesting what kind of product to develop. Coming up with a recipe is the easiest part. Then comes finding the right raw materials from the right place. That is more difficult because we use herbs and oils which are mostly seasonal. Then there’s the administrative side that means analyses, report writing, safety assessment, product registration. And of course – the end vision and manufacturing, then marketing.”

Clients of the company, which has been on the market since 1991, are private individuals and leading international companies alike. So, we asked Maria Spasova – is there a recipe of success and what is the secret ingredient?

“I used to say there is no such recipe, but actually there is. But it took me some time to formulate it. The ingredients are a combination of drive, patience, tenacity, hard work, sleepless nights and loving what you do. And, last but not least, a team and a family you can rely on. That is the secret of success!”

English version: Milena Daynova